Walking between Fire and Ice in Iceland
One of my biggest “mom fears” is that someday I’ll look back and realize the last trip we took with the kids was… the LAST trip we took as a family. So every time the kids agree to go on a trip with us it makes this mama’s heart happy. The tribe is growing now that we have reached the significant others phase and as much as I want to, I can’t afford to pay for everyone. So, for this trip Deb and I offered to pay for the big stuff – lodging, rental car and a couple of excursions – and the kids were responsible for their own flights and anything else we decided to do. To my surprise, they were totally on board! No complaints, no side-eye, just a “sounds awesome.” (Either they’ve matured, or they’ve realized it’s still a pretty sweet deal.)
As for the destination, Iceland has been sitting on all of our travel bucket lists forever. The only question was when? Do we go in the summer when it’s basically daylight 24/7 but zero chance of seeing the Northern Lights, or in the winter when the waterfalls freeze and hiking turns into an Olympic sport? After doing some research and discovering that summer meant hiking, kayaking, and waterfalls that actually flow, we were sold and booked a week in Southern Iceland in the middle of July.
There aren’t a ton of airlines that have routes to Iceland, so we booked with Icelandair, which meant a JetBlue warm-up flight from West Palm Beach to Boston, and then Icelandair from Boston to Keflavík. Meanwhile, my oldest daughter and her husband who live in Raleigh, North Carolina, waltzed right past us with a non-stop flight from RDU to KEF. (Yes, apparently Raleigh is cooler than we thought.) For the record, there are also direct flights from New York, Chicago, DC, Seattle, and Orlando.
We did have a few mishaps because Icelandair didn’t complete the ticketing process properly. So, while we could see our reservation in the app, JetBlue looked at us like we were trying to check in with a library card. It took about 40 minutes – on both ends of the JetBlue flights – to get things sorted out. Apparently, this happens all the time with mixed-carrier tickets. Pro-tip: give yourself extra time at the airport, because you’ll probably need it. Another little “gotcha” with mixed-carrier tickets is that each airline’s baggage rules still apply. So just because JetBlue gives you a free checked bag doesn’t mean Icelandair will. You might have to pay extra for that suitcase stuffed with sweaters and hiking boots so check before you buy or risk a surprise fee at the counter. Oh, and if you’re really cool like us – all 6 of you can have suitcase covers with your dog’s picture on it!
The international airport in Iceland is actually in Keflavík, not Reykjavík, and it’s about a 45-minute ride into the city. If you’re not renting a car, the easiest option is Flybus, which runs straight to the Reykjavík bus station. Flybus Plus will even drop you directly at your hotel (worth it if your luggage weighs more than you do – Kaleigh I’m looking at you!). Because flights to Iceland usually arrive earlier in the morning long before your hotel becomes available, some bus companies even stop at the Blue Lagoon on the way, which feels like the most Icelandic “welcome party” imaginable. Icelandair sells Flybus tickets on the plane, but if you’re visiting during the summer, book ahead as seats can fill up fast.
Since there were six of us traveling, we decided to rent a car. Yes, it was a bit pricey, but when we compared it to the cost of tours with transfers, the math was pretty clear – pay more for endless bus rides… or slightly less for the freedom to stop at waterfalls whenever we felt like it. Spoiler alert, waterfalls won. We used a company called Northbound, which also operates under Key Car Rental. They don’t have a booth at the airport – which immediately made me nervous – but a few other bloggers had given them the thumbs up, and the price was so much cheaper I figured it was worth the gamble. Plus, they were one of the only companies with a vehicle big enough to haul six adults and their bags – a 2021 Mercedes Vito Van. If you’re going to Iceland and need a vehicle bigger than a clown car, book it early. Like, “as soon as you buy your plane tickets” early.
Our flight landed in Keflavík at 10pm, and the email from Northbound promised that someone would be waiting for us in the arrivals hall with keys in hand. Easy! But when we arrived, there was no one there to greet us. The WhatsApp numbers they’d given us didn’t work either. I finally found an emergency number on an older email but kept getting placed on hold or disconnected. At this point, my kids were convinced I’d fallen for a scam, and honestly, I was starting to agree. After an hour of failed calls, hold-music, and mild panic, we trudged over to the Enterprise desk to try and figure out how to get 6 people and 6 medium suitcases in a vehicle meant for 5. That’s exactly when Northbound finally answered. Apparently, the pickup process had changed since the time we rented the car, and instead of a smiling rep with keys, we were supposed to retrieve them from a key box in a building on the airport property. Sure enough, the keys were waiting in the box, and the van was parked out front. Once we figured that out, everything was smooth sailing. Within minutes we were packed in the van, and off on our Icelandic adventure.
In July, Iceland has about 19.5 hours of daylight which is great for touring, slightly less for sleeping. Even though it was 11pm it was still light out and we were easily able to find our Airbnb. Iceland is jaw-droppingly gorgeous, but it’s also jaw-droppingly expensive. Think $35 for a personal pizza and a soda. We couldn’t afford three different hotel rooms, so we found an Airbnb that would accommodate all of us and would allow us to make meals at home whenever possible. We debated getting hotels along the route to reduce driving time but having a home base with a kitchen allowed us to save a ton of money on food. We packed sandwiches for lunch on our day trips and made dinner at the Airbnb a few nights. It really cut down on food costs and it was much cheaper to rent one large Airbnb at a weekly rate. One odd thing, most of the larger accommodations had only one bathroom – which was fun with 5 women in one house.
Our first full day was very low-key. Partly due to jet lag, partly because I don’t usually plan anything major on the first day of a vacation in case there are flight issues. Instead, we leaned into everyday Icelandic life – mall strolling, grocery shopping, and yes, even a Costco run. We love to check out grocery stores in other countries to see the different things they have, so we stocked up on food, grabbed a cooler to use with our picnic lunches, and discovered the holy grail of budget dining in Iceland – the Costco hotdog combo. Even in Iceland for just $2.50, you get a hotdog and a drink.
Whenever you see an advertisement for Iceland, it will inevitably have a picture of the Blue Lagoon with its milky blue water and constant temperature of 98-104° F. ׄ It is a big part of Icelandic tourism and as such it is HIGHLY overpriced. There are several other hot springs in Iceland that are cheaper, and in my opinion much better, but the kids wanted to do the Blue Lagoon so we bought the base entry package which was a whopping $118 pp. This included entry, the use of a towel, public changing rooms, a locker, a silica “mask” and one drink at the bar. The lagoon is actually man-made and is supplied by run-off from a nearby geothermal power station and the water is blue due to its high silica content. That same silica that is great for your skin, is not so great for your hair. It will make it feel dry, stiff and tangled for a week or so after it gets wet – so make sure to wear a bathing cap or keep it up in a high bun. I read on a bunch of blogs that you had to shower naked before getting in the pool, and you do, but even in the non-VIP areas the showers had doors. No traumatizing group shower situation. Phew. The Lagoon was crowded but we had our celebratory drink and took the obligatory pictures to celebrate our first day in Iceland.
At the time we visited, I had just watched the Whakaari documentary about a volcano erupting while tourists were hiking the volcano. So of course, my brain was fully prepared for disaster. The Blue Lagoon is very close to Grindavik, an area that has been affected by the most recent eruptions. You can see the newly formed lava fields as you drive by. And fun fact (by “fun” I mean terrifying), during the last eruption, the lava actually shut down the Blue Lagoon’s parking lot and destroyed one of the outer buildings. The kids teased me when I told them we were parking at the edge of the lot and backing in so we were ready to run! We made it through our visit, but the volcano erupted two days later – had I been in the Lagoon at the time I think I would have lost my mind. The eruption was what they called a tourist volcano though, meaning the gases weren’t deadly and you could get close enough to take pictures of lava in the distance. Many tour companies announced trips to the volcano and though I may regret not taking my one chance to see an active volcano, we stayed safely far away on the other side of Iceland
On our second day in Iceland we made our way to Gulfoss, one of Iceland’s most famous waterfalls located on the Golden Circle tourist route. The name translates to, “Golden Falls” for the golden hues it takes in sunlight and the rainbows often seen in its mist. It features a total drop of about 105 feet into a dramatic canyon carved by the Hvita river. There are two parking lots at Gulfoss, both of which are free to use. The upper lot has restrooms, a café and a panoramic viewing area that looks out over the falls. There are stairs that lead down to a path to get closer to the waterfall. The lower lot has a few picnic tables and eliminates the need to climb down to the path before climbing back up to the waterfall. The path to the waterfall itself does involve stairs and an incline so it is not for those with mobility issues, but the falls can clearly be seen from either parking lot viewing point. We took the walk out to the waterfall so we could feel the mist and take in the beautiful views.
Many tours depart from the Gulfoss parking lot including the one we signed up for – a Snowmobile tour with Mountaineers of Iceland. First, they take you on a Super Jeep ride though the Icelandic landscape to the Langjökull glacier. At the glacier base camp they give you all the gear you’ll need (a snowsuit, gloves, balaclava, and overshoes) and then you continue on up to the meeting point where the snowmobiles are waiting. There are two people to a snowmobile (you can pay extra to ride alone if you’re a single rider or be paired with someone if available) and there were 16 snowmobiles on our tour. If you’ve never ridden a snowmobile before they tend to slide a bit because they’re on snow/ice, so it takes a minute to get used to – but they are easy to handle. Well, I should caveat that – because you’re on a glacier and the same paths are used over and over, there are ruts on the side of the trail. If you keep your skis out of the rut, you’re fine. But if the ski goes in the rut, there’s a good chance your snowmobile will tip over. On our tour two of the snowmobiles tipped and both happened to be driven by members of our family! To add to the comedy, Deb’s Apple Watch immediately sent out a “crash detected” alert to all of her emergency contacts who did not seem at all surprised. Halfway through, the group pauses on the glacier for photos, snow play, and (if you’re traveling as a duo) the chance to swap drivers. For folks that have never seen snow before this was a great opportunity to channel your inner Elsa during the Summer. I should note that because we had a car, we could drive to Gulfoss to meet our tour. Many of the tour operators have the same tours leaving directly from Reykjavík at a higher price with transportation included.
The following day was a big driving day, so we fueled up with breakfast at our Airbnb, packed some road-trip lunches, and hit the road early in the hopes of staying one step ahead of the tour buses. Our first stop was the Seljalandsfoss waterfall (as you’ll soon figure out “foss” means waterfall in Icelandic). Seljalandsfoss is a 200 ft tall waterfall right off the main road that is especially cool because there is a small cave that lets you actually walk behind the waterfall to see what it looks like from the inside! The path isn’t particularly difficult, but it is definitely rocky and muddy making it slippery. You’ll also want to wear a raincoat so you don’t get drenched by the water and mist. There is a parking fee here, but you can pay easily through the Parka app.
As stunning as Seljalandsfoss is, the real treat is the “hidden” waterfall nearby that many people miss. If you’re facing Seljalandsfoss and walk a few hundred meters to the left along the path, you’ll spot a narrow crack in the cliff wall. That’s the entrance to Gljúfrabúi. The path is actually a small stream, but there are stones you can step on so that you don’t get your shoes completely wet. Once inside, you’ll find yourself in a cave without a roof, mist swirling around you, with the waterfall thundering down the back wall. There’s even a big rock perfectly positioned for dramatic photos.
Our next roadside stop was at the delightfully random “Fence of Bras.” Legend has it that a few bras were left on the fence after a party and passersby started to add to the collection and leave their own. Naturally we had to pull over for a quick picture and though the girls didn’t want to leave their lululemon bras, they raised their shirts passersby to signal their approval. Continuing our waterfall journey we also stopped at Skógafoss. This is another beautiful 200ft waterfall just off the Ring Road. There is a 527-step staircase leading to panoramic views at the top. Deb, Aislyn and I were content to look at Skógafoss from the bottom while Austen tried to convince us he could make it up and back in 15 minutes. Right then and there the gauntlet was thrown. Final time just to get to the top? Austen 10 minutes, Kaleigh 9 minutes and Brynna crushed it in 7 minutes! While we waited for them to come back Aislyn tested the popular TikTok theory that cows like jazz. Spoiler alert, they did not and walked away once the music started playing.
I really wanted to see Puffins and I floated the idea of a Puffin tour to the kids, but no one seemed very interested. Not willing to give up on my Puffin dreams I tried to find a place where I had the best chance of seeing one and the Dyrhólaey cliffs kept coming up. Since it was right near where we were going to ATV and you could drive all the way up to the top, I added it to the itinerary. Even without Puffins, Dyrhólaey was worth the stop. At the top sits a lighthouse shaped like a little stone castle – and the views of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier to the North, and the black sand beaches below were amazing. You also get a great view of the huge lava arch with a hole in it the peninsula gets its name from (Dyrhólaey literally means “the hill island with the door hole”).
The best time to see puffins at Dyrhólaey is from late April to late August which was great since we were visiting in July. The best viewing activity is usually in the early morning or evening when they return from fishing. I was a little worried that I wouldn’t get to see them because our schedule only allowed for a noon visit. As I braced myself for puffin disappointment my son-in-law suddenly said “hey!” and pointed to a bush right next to me where a puffin was peeking his head around. That immediately made my day, and I got my close-up puffin pictures – mission accomplished!
From Dyrhólaey we headed off to the meeting point for our ATV Black Beach Safari tour with Icelandic Mountain Guides. The guides suited us up with insulated coveralls, a balaclava and a helmet. The only thing we had to provide was our own waterproof shoes. Each ATV seats two, and halfway through the ride you can swap drivers. From base camp, the tour winds through small streams before hitting the wide stretch of black sand beach. There is also a stop at the Sólheimasandur plane wreck made famous in a Justin Bieber video. Driving the ATVs was surprisingly easy, and it was incredible to see the beaches up close in a safe way. Iceland’s black sand beaches are infamous for “sneaker waves.” These waves don’t politely roll in – they surge out of nowhere, crash onto the beach, and sometimes drag unsuspecting visitors toward the ocean with strong undertows and rip currents. Warning signs line the coast for good reason. Of course being a mom, this made me extremely nervous and I kept reminding everyone to stay away from the surf. I think the kids capitalized on my discomfort and jokingly yelled, “sneaker wave” loudly every time something took us by surprise for the rest of the trip.
My youngest daughter loves to kayak, and I thought kayaking through a glacier lagoon would be a really cool experience for her (pun very much intended). I wanted to take her to the Jökulsárlón Lagoon which is on the East side of Iceland, and about five hours from Reykjavík. We had already made plans to visit Vik for the ATV tour which was the halfway point, so I booked a hotel room along the way for one night. This seemed like a great plan until about a week before we left for vacation, I realized I had booked it for the wrong night, and by then, every room in the area was sold out. Not going wasn’t really an option as we had booked tours along the way that we couldn’t cancel. I finally found two rooms about 20 minutes past our destination at the Hotel Smyrlabjorg for a whopping total of $800, not to mention I lost my money on the original hotel room. Lesson learned, I will now be TRIPLE-checking every non-refundable reservation I make!
The silver lining was that the new hotel was actually charming, with two rooms instead of cramming all of us into one. Plus, it was closer to the lagoon, which meant we could enjoy a leisurely hotel breakfast before heading out—no early wake-up call required. The morning was a little foggy, but kayaking among the icebergs was still magical and the fog only added to the mystique. We floated past seals bobbing in the water and watched Arctic terns swoop around us. I imagine doing this on a clear day would be breath-taking. A little further down the road was Breiðamerkursandur, a black sand beach where icebergs from Jökulsárlón wash ashore. Most call it Diamond Beach because of the sparkling appearance of ice on the black sand. You can walk amongst the ice and crashing waves and it seems surreal. As if the scene wasn’t photogenic enough, a bride appeared, taking wedding photos among the icebergs. It looked so incredible I couldn’t resist sneaking my own shot, and it turned out to be one of my favorite pictures of the entire trip. We also got a beautiful view of Vik I Myrdal church on the way home.
Snorkeling between continents has been on my bucket list for ages, and Iceland happens to be the only place in the world where you can actually do it. In Þingvellir National Park lies Silfra, a rift formed by the slow, dramatic breakup of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The water remains a constant 35-39° year-round and is some of the clearest water on the planet with visibility over 330 ft. There is very little sea life in the water, but the vivid colors and dramatic lava rock formations are unforgettable. We booked with Troll Expeditions who provided everything we needed: dry suits, snorkeling gear, fins, and – most importantly – hot chocolate and candy bars at the end. They also take underwater pictures of your group, which is great because trying to manage a GoPro with numb fingers is not ideal. The drysuit is a bit uncomfortable out of the water, but once in you don’t really feel the constriction. Your wrists and part of your face get exposed to the cold water, but after a few minutes they go numb and it’s not noticeable. The tour leads you through the fissure and out into an open lagoon where you can stop and float or take pictures before exiting. If you’re not a great swimmer, effort-wise it’s easy because you are wearing a life vest which is buoyant and there is a current that pushes you along very slowly through the rift. It’s not very deep in most places (in some spots you have to lift your legs up to float through) but you cannot stand on the rocks, so you do have to be comfortable using the snorkel. Brynna was hesitant at first, but afterward she declared it her absolute favorite activity of the trip. Not bad for something that involves voluntarily dunking yourself in near-freezing water
That night we switched gears completely for date night. Everyone split off to do their own thing, and later we regrouped with the kids at Hús máls og menningar. By day it’s a beautiful, sprawling bookstore, but come 8 p.m. it transforms into a venue for The Bookstore Band. Their specialty? 80’s American rock. Let’s just say nothing bonds a family together like belting out Bon Jovi with a room full of strangers in Reykjavík. The band was so good I even bought a groupie t-shirt!
We spent our last day in the city of Reykjavík, which felt strange after a week of non-stop waterfalls, glaciers, and snowmobile mishaps. Since shops don’t open until 10 a.m., most of the group took the opportunity to sleep in. Aislyn and I, however, snuck out for a mother-daughter date at the Sky Lagoon. While the Blue Lagoon is 45 minutes away from Reykjavík, the Sky Lagoon is just a few minutes from the city center. It’s a man-made geothermal pool like its blue cousin, but the vibe is cozier—stone benches built into the water, little cliff-like walls around the edge, and an infinity pool view that makes it look like you’re floating out over the ocean straight into Reykjavík. Both are expensive, but the Sky Lagoon standard admission also includes their 7-Step Skjol Ritual which starts with the lagoon soak, a cold plunge, then it’s into the beautiful Turf House for a cold fog-mist, the sauna, a cold mist shower, body scrub and the steam room. Aislyn and I enjoyed the ritual and calmness of the Sky Lagoon more than the Blue Lagoon – but this also could have to do with the fact that we were there when the doors opened before the crowds rolled in. If you’re after the ritual and a quieter vibe, Sky Lagoon is the winner. If you want the classic “I bathed in the Blue Lagoon” bragging rights and maybe a slightly cheaper ticket, stick with Blue.
Once we got back and showered, the whole group headed for the city center. Reykjavík’s city center is compact, which makes it easy to cover in an afternoon without feeling rushed. We started at Hallgrímskirkja, the largest church in Iceland, famous for its striking exterior that looks like organ pipes made out of lava. Inside, you’ll find stained glass and the country’s largest pipe organ, which is free to see. But the best part is the view—take the elevator up the tower for about $12 and you get sweeping views of the colorful rooftops below. Aislyn was obsessed with the cats of Reykjavík and we went to several souvenir shops looking for cats instead of souvenirs. That’s how we met Ofelia, a shop cat with her own clothing line (Reykjavík cats are apparently both adorable and entrepreneurial). Debbie and Aislyn even detoured to the cat café, while the rest of us strolled down Rainbow Road with its colorful shops and restaurants.
Naturally, we made snack stops: a gooey cinnamon roll from Braud, Rye Bread icecream from Loki and hot dogs from Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (aka “the best hot dogs in town). We popped into Harpa Concert Hall, admired its glittery glass facade, and then went on a mission to find Debbie a Starbucks mug – her travel collection tradition. Sadly, Iceland didn’t have a Starbucks yet, though we learned one was opening the following week. So close, yet so far.
Visiting Reykjavik was a great way to end our trip to Iceland. For me, Iceland was a perfect mix of jaw-dropping scenery, quirky adventures, and plenty of family comedy. If you’re planning a trip, go prepared for unpredictable weather, high prices, and the possibility that your Apple Watch might one day text your friends to report a snowmobile crash. But also go ready to be amazed—because Iceland really does live up to the hype.
